How to propagate chili pepper

How to propagate chili peppers? Let's learn this knowledge together. I hope you can study it carefully.

Pepper

The cutting medium of chili pepper is the nutrient soil or river sand, peat soil and other materials used for cutting. Due to the limited conditions of home cutting, it is difficult to get the ideal cutting medium. It is recommended to use the cutting medium that has been prepared and sterilized. Medium-coarse river sand is also OK, but it should be rinsed with clean water several times before use. Sea sand and river sand in saline-alkali areas should not be used, as they are not suitable for the growth of flowers and plants.

Selection of cuttings: The branches used for cuttings are called cuttings. Usually combined with the work of pinching, the thick, disease-free top branches are used as cuttings, and the top branches are directly used for cuttings.

How to propagate chili pepper

Temperature: The optimum temperature for rooting of cuttings is 18℃～25℃. If it is lower than 18℃, rooting of cuttings is difficult and slow; if it is higher than 25℃, the cut ends of cuttings are easily infected by pathogens and rot, and the higher the temperature, the greater the rot rate. When low temperature is encountered after cuttings, the main measure for heat preservation is to wrap the flower pots or containers used for cuttings with film; when the temperature is too high after cuttings, the main measure for cooling is to shade the cuttings, blocking 50-80% of the sunlight, and at the same time, spray the cuttings 3-5 times a day. On sunny days with higher temperatures, spray more frequently, and on rainy days with lower temperatures and higher temperatures, spray less frequently or not at all.

Humidity: After cutting, the relative humidity of the air must be maintained at 75-85%. Humidity can be increased by spraying the cuttings 1-3 times a day. The higher the temperature on sunny days, the more times you spray. The lower the temperature on rainy days, the less or no spraying is needed. However, excessive spraying can easily cause the cuttings to be infected by pathogens and rot, because many types of pathogens exist in water.

Light: Cutting propagation cannot be separated from sunlight. However, the stronger the light, the higher the temperature inside the cuttings, the more vigorous the transpiration of the cuttings, the more water consumed, and it is not conducive to the survival of the cuttings. Therefore, after cuttings, 50-80% of the sunlight must be blocked, and after the roots grow out, the shading net can be gradually removed: on sunny days, the shading net should be removed at 4:00 p.m. every day, and covered before 9:00 a.m. the next day.

Potting or transplanting: When potting the seedlings, first put a 2-2 cm thick coarse-grained substrate or expanded clay at the bottom of the pot as a water filter layer, and sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, about 1-2 cm thick, and then cover with a layer of substrate, about 1-2 cm thick, and then put the plants in to separate the fertilizer from the roots to avoid root burn.

The substrate for potting can be one of the following. Garden soil: slag = 3:1; or garden soil: medium coarse river sand: sawdust (vegetable residue) = 4:1:2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud, and leaf humus. Or peat + perlite + ceramsite = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; garden soil + slag = 3 parts + 1 part; peat + slag + ceramsite = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; sawdust + vermiculite + medium coarse river sand = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part. After potting, water thoroughly once and place in a slightly shaded environment for maintenance for a week.

When transplanting seedlings, dig a planting hole first, sprinkle a layer of organic fertilizer as base fertilizer (basal fertilizer) at the bottom of the planting hole, about 4 to 6 cm thick, then cover it with a layer of soil and put the seedlings in to separate the fertilizer from the roots to avoid burning the roots. After putting the seedlings in, backfill the soil to cover the roots, tamp the soil with your feet, and water it thoroughly.

Pinching: Generally, pinching is done twice before flowering to promote the germination of more flowering branches: one to two weeks after potting, or when the seedlings are 6 to 10 cm tall and have more than six leaves, remove the top and keep the lower 3 to 4 leaves to promote branching. 3 to 5 weeks after the first pinching, or when the side branches grow to 6 to 8 cm long, do the second pinching, that is, remove the top of the side branches and keep the 4 leaves below the side branches. After two pinchings, the plant shape will be more ideal and the number of flowers will be more.