Oyster mushroom cultivation method

Oyster mushroom is one of my favorite vegetables, and my mother often cooks it for me. So today I will tell you how to cultivate oyster mushroom:

(1) Short wood cultivation

Choose soft tree species suitable for growing oyster mushrooms, such as tung, sweet gum, poplar, sycamore, maple, etc., and cut them down after the leaves fall in the first year and before they sprout in the second year. During this period, the tree has the richest nutrient storage. When cutting and transporting mushroom wood, protect the bark and brush the tree tops with quicklime to avoid contamination of other fungi.

After the mushroom wood is transported back to the cultivation site, it is sawn into short pieces of wood 5-6 inches long. The fungus spawn is mixed into a paste with cold boiled water and evenly grafted on the cross section. Then a second short piece of wood is overlapped and the fungus spawn is spread. Then a third short piece of wood is added... until the next stack is unstable, and then a second stack is connected. After each stack is connected, wooden strips are nailed on two or four sides to fix it to prevent loosening or collapse. When sawing mushroom wood, each section should be numbered and marked to ensure the quality of inoculation. After the seeds are grafted, some protective measures should be taken. It is strictly forbidden to shake the inoculation stack to ensure normal planting. The stack should be covered with branches or thatch to provide shade, heat preservation and moisture retention.

The piles should be buried ten days before or after the beginning of autumn. The piles can be buried in places such as those in front of or behind the house, in the woods, bamboo forests, under the grape trellises, etc., where they can be exposed to rain and shaded. The short wood with mycelium grown should be buried vertically in the soil one by one, leaving only about 1 inch of the ground above the growing mushrooms. If the ground is left high, it will not be moisturized. There should be appropriate spacing between the piles to avoid crowded mushrooms. A sidewalk should be left every 1.5 meters to facilitate management and mushroom picking.

Management of mushroom production. In September and October, when the temperature drops and autumn rain appears, mushrooms will begin to grow. If the rainfall is insufficient, artificial watering should be used. Stop spraying water for 7-10 days after picking mushrooms to improve ventilation conditions, which is conducive to the next batch of mushrooms.

Short wood cultivation can be harvested for three years after one inoculation. Mushrooms can be harvested in autumn and winter, and the piles can be rested in spring and summer. If the piles are left to rest naturally in spring and summer, high yields can be obtained in autumn and winter. If the mushrooms are watered in spring and summer, the yield will be low and the piles will rot quickly, and the yield will be seriously reduced in autumn and winter, which is not worth the loss.

The success rate of short wood cultivation is high. Every 100 kilograms of short wood can yield more than 60 kilograms of fresh mushrooms, and the highest can reach more than 150 kilograms.

(2) Branch cultivation

Cut small branches abandoned in lumberyards or during cultivation, and small branches pruned from urban gardens or street trees into 1-foot lengths and tie them into bundles with a diameter of 5 inches using wire.

Dig a 5-inch deep, 2.5-foot wide, and unlimited-length trench in a well-drained area. Place the branch bundles upright in the dry trench, sprinkle the fungus, cover with three layers of wet newspaper, and then cover with straw mats to retain moisture. After 2-3 months, when it is confirmed that the mycelium has spread, fill the space between the branch bundles with soil and cover with straw mats. When the temperature drops below 20℃, the straw mats should be raised to manage moisture and produce mushrooms.

(3) Indoor bed-type cultivation method

This method is suitable for regular professional production, and can make full use of the three-dimensional space to facilitate artificial temperature control and year-round cultivation. Although this method has a large one-time investment, it has a fast turnover and cost recovery.

Construction of mushroom house: Choose a dry, clean, sunny and windproof area with good air flow. The mushroom house should face south. Each room is about 20 square meters and 3.5 meters high. The walls and roof should be thick to reduce the impact of sudden temperature changes, especially to prevent high temperature attacks. The inner walls and roof should be painted with lime to help sterilize. The floor should be smooth and solid to clean and maintain hygiene. The layout of doors and windows should be reasonable to facilitate ventilation and bed frame installation. Install windows at the foot of the wall and wind ducts on the roof. If conditions permit, heating and cooling facilities should be equipped.

The existing house was converted into a mushroom house, mainly by opening lower windows and installing pull-out ducts.

There are two designs for simple mushroom houses: one is to dig 1.5-2 meters deep under the ground, and build a semi-underground type, which is good for heat preservation in winter and heatstroke prevention in summer. It is required to be built in a place without groundwater. The lower wall and the ground are compacted, and drainage ditches are dug around. An exhaust pipe with a 45-degree slope extends from the ground wall dug below to prevent poor ventilation. The upper wall is made of adobe, and the wall is about 2.5 meters high. There are doors at both ends, and the outside of the wall is plastered with lime and covered with grass. The other is to use wooden stakes to build a frame, and use reeds and sorghum stalks to surround the wall. The inside and outside are plastered with mud and the roof is covered with grass. This type of mushroom house is only suitable for use in spring and autumn.

Bed frame setting: The bed frame should be arranged vertically with the mushroom house. Do not place it against the wall. Leave a 2-foot wide walkway on both sides of the north and south windows, and a 1.5-foot wide walkway on the east and west walls. The walkway between the bed frames is 2 feet wide. The distance between each layer is 2 feet, and the bottom layer is 1 foot from the ground. The upper layer is 4-5 feet from the roof, and the bed surface is 4.5 feet wide. The bed frame must be solid and flat.

The bed frame can be made of a variety of materials: one is reinforced concrete structure; one is wood; one is iron frame, or it can be made of a combination of several materials. The simplest one is to pile bricks, lay horizontal bars with wooden sticks, and lay layers of reed curtains.

Mushroom house disinfection: The mushroom house must be strictly disinfected before and after use. One day before disinfection, clean the mushroom house first, and then spray the room with clean water to improve the disinfection effect. Mushroom house disinfection is usually carried out 3 days before cultivation. The disinfection method can be selected according to specific conditions.

① Sulfur fumigation: Seal the mushroom house and then ignite 5 grams of sulfur per cubic meter of space for fumigation.

② Fumigation with 10 ml of formaldehyde solution and 1 gram of potassium permanganate per cubic meter of space.

③Spray 1 kg of bleaching powder with 30% effective chlorine content.

④Spray with 5% carbolic acid solution.

After disinfection, open the windows and ventilate for two days before using for cultivation. The disinfection of old mushroom houses should be more thorough. Otherwise, bacterial contamination and insect pests will occur seriously, leading to production failure.

The culture medium for bed cultivation can be raw material or semi-cooked material. It can be powdered material or coarse material. Generally, the layer sowing method is adopted, that is, a plastic film is laid on the bed frame, 1.5-2 inches of material is laid, a layer of bacteria is sprinkled, and then a layer of paper is laid and the film is covered. Inoculation amount: wheat grains are 5-10% of the material, and sawdust is doubled. The first layer of seed volume accounts for 1/3 of the total seed volume, and the second layer accounts for 2/3. Before covering the film, use a wooden board to flatten and compact the material surface. Powdered material is lightly pressed, and coarse material is heavily pressed. The thickness of the material should be controlled. It is thin when it is hot and thick when it is cold; powdered material is thin, and coarse material is thick. The thickness and thinness here are relative. The thinnest should not be less than 3 inches, and the thickest should not exceed 6 inches.

Another inoculation method is hole sowing: after laying the material, make holes according to the plant spacing of 3×3 inches, plant a piece of fungus the size of a date in each hole, then sprinkle a thin layer of fungus cover, and flatten the cover film.

(4) Bag planting

Choose a tubular plastic film with a width of 22-25cm. Cut it into 50cm long plastic tubes, or use ordinary polyethylene film to thermally bond it into the above-mentioned plastic tubes. There are two ways of bag planting: cooked material and raw material.

Clinker cultivation is divided into two-end inoculation method and two-side inoculation method. The two-end inoculation method is suitable for stacking cultivation, and the two-side inoculation method is suitable for hanging bag cultivation.

The bagging process of the two-end inoculation method is to first put a hard plastic with a diameter of 3.5CM and a length of 3.5-4CM into the bag mouth, turn the plastic bag mouth over, make it close to the ring, and then plug it with a cotton plug. Rotate the bag for a circle so that there is no hole before loading. After loading, press it to a certain height, punch an inoculation hole in the middle, and use the same method to put the other end of the ring and cotton plug. Sterilize in a steamer. Sterilize at normal pressure for 10 hours, and after cooling, sterilize and culture in the inoculation room.

Double-sided inoculation is to tie one end of the bag tightly, melt the bag, seal it, and then load the material, tie the other end tightly, seal it, and sterilize it. During inoculation, use a sterilized puncher in the inoculation room to punch two inoculation holes on each side of the bag, and then stick the inoculation holes with medical tape after the seeds are inoculated, and then culture them.

For raw material (or semi-cooked material) cultivation, tie the unmoldy rice straw into a 2-inch long and 1-inch thick ventilation plug and tie it at one end of the bag mouth, add a layer of bacteria and then add the material, press while filling, put another layer of bacteria in the middle of the bag and add the material, finally sprinkle a layer of bacteria and tie the air plug, then it can be cultured indoors. Another inoculation method is mixed sowing, that is, mix the bacteria and the material and put them in the bag. The amount of seeds used in raw material bag planting must reach 15% of the material. If the bacteria are too little, it is easy to fail.

After inoculation, the cultivation bags are first placed at a suitable temperature for fermentation. Generally, the mycelium will fill the bags in 15-25 days, and then they can be moved in for cultivation. For the bags inoculated at both ends, remove the cotton plugs and ferrules, cut off or roll the bag mouth outwards, stack them up like brick stacks, and spray water to manage them. Mushrooms will grow at both ends. If they are stacked against the wall, mushrooms will grow at one end. For the bags inoculated on both sides, when the mycelium fills the inoculation holes, tear off a corner of the tape to increase ventilation. After the mycelium fills the bag, hang the bag with an "S"-shaped wire hook, tear off all the tape and spray water to manage it. The management of the raw material bags is the same as that of the cooked material bags inoculated at both ends.

(5) Brick cultivation

This method is easy to operate, has high work efficiency, low cost, high yield and good economic benefits. Because it is easy to move, it is particularly suitable for growing mushrooms outside caves and civil air defense tunnels in summer.

First, make a movable wooden mold with a length of 1-1.5 feet, a width of 0.8-1 feet, and a height of 0.3-0.6 inches. When making bricks, first lay a long film, then make mushroom bricks with raw materials or semi-cooked materials by layer sowing or mixed sowing, remove the wooden mold, and culture the fungi. The management method is the same as the bed type and box type, which will be introduced in the "Management Method" later.

(6) Box type, basket type, basin type, etc.

Oyster mushroom cultivation can make full use of wooden boxes, cardboard boxes, plastic boxes, bamboo baskets, baskets, various pots and other containers. Its cultivation method is basically the same as the mushroom brick cultivation method. The only difference is that the mushroom brick is a movable wooden mold that can be demoulded, while the other methods are directly in the container.

(7) Bundling cultivation

Soak the corn cobs in 2% lime water, rinse them, and tie them into bundles with wire (the head and tail cannot be reversed). Use an iron drill to poke a hole in each corn cob head and put a bean-sized fungus on it. Half of it should be sunken into the hole and half should be exposed outside the hole. Cover it with a layer of paper and then wrap the whole bundle with a sterilized film for fungus fermentation.

(8) Sunbed cultivation method

The cultivation method of Pleurotus ostreatus in sunny beds is a raw material cultivation method developed in recent years that is suitable for large-scale production in rural areas. It is suitable for full utilization of the front and back of houses, open spaces in the forest, under grape racks, winter idle fields, urban gardens, and empty houses. It does not require special equipment, has low cost, high yield, is simple and easy to operate, and the technology is easy to master. It is a popular cultivation method.

Construction of solarium: There are generally three methods to choose from depending on the conditions.

Digging: The sunbed faces south and is 30cm deep, 1m wide and of unlimited length. The excavated soil is placed on the north side of the bed to build a 1-foot high low wall, and a shallow ditch is dug on the south side of the bed for drainage. This method is suitable for idle fields and open spaces in the forest in winter.

Building a bed: Use mud and bricks to build a bed with a width of 1 meter, a height of 20 cm, and an unlimited length. Apply mud to the inner wall. This method is suitable for empty houses, cement yards, balconies and other places where it is inconvenient to dig.

Bed building: Use bamboo or steel bars to build a north-south arched shed, 2.5 meters wide, with a 30cm trench in the middle as an aisle, and the length is unlimited. This bed can be rotated with vegetables.

If the bed is too dry before inoculation, water it the day before inoculation. Wait for the water to seep down and inoculate the next day; if the groundwater level in the bed is high, a film should be laid in the bed before inoculation. The feed inoculation method is the same as the feed inoculation of indoor bed frame cultivation method. If the temperature is low or there is no shade after inoculation, use straw curtains to keep warm or shade.